by Katie M. Sotzing

There are many choices to preserve a harvest of fresh fruit such as jelly, jam, preserves, conserves and marmalades that are jellied or thickened. Most are preserved using sugar. Their individual characteristics depend on the kind of fruit used and the way it is prepared, the proportions of different ingredients in the mixture and the method of cooking.

Jellies are usually made by cooking fruit juice with sugar. A good product is clear and firm enough to hold its shape when turned out of the container, but quivers when the container is moved. When cut, it should be tender, yet retain the angle of the cut. Jelly should have a flavorful, fresh, fruity taste.

Jams are thick, sweet spreads made by cooking crushed or chopped fruits with sugar. Jams tend to hold their shape, but are generally less firm than jelly. Preserves are small, whole fruit or uniform size pieces in a clear, slightly gelled, syrup. The fruit should be tender and plump. Conserves are jam-like products that may be made with a combination of fruits. They also contain nuts, raisins or coconut. Marmalades are soft fruit jellies containing small pieces of fruit or peel evenly suspended in the transparent jelly. They often contain citrus fruit.

Once we have decided on the jellied fruit product of choice, there are some essentials needed to begin the process. Fruit provides the characteristic color and flavor to the jellied product. It also furnishes at least part of the pectin and acid needed for a gel. The fruit should be just at the ripest stage for best natural color and flavor. Fruits of irregular size and shape can be used if they are good quality because they will be cut up, mashed or made into juice.

Pectin is the substance that causes the fruit to gel. Some fruits have enough natural pectin to make high-quality products, while others require added pectin, especially when they are used for making jellies, which should be firm enough to hold their shape. The highest quality pectin is found in just-ripe fruit. Pectin from under-ripe or overripe fruit will not form a gel. Commercial pectin is made from apples or citrus fruit and is available in both powdered and liquid forms. It may be used with any fruit. Many consumers prefer the added pectin method for making jellied fruit products because fully ripe fruit can be used that shortens the cooking and set times.

Acid is needed both for gel formation and flavor. The acid content varies among fruits and is higher in under-ripe fruits. When fruits are low in acid, lemon juice or citric acid may be used. This also keeps the fruit product from turning brown, or oxidizing.

Sugar is the preservative for the product, preventing the growth of microorganisms. It must be present in the proper proportion with pectin and acid to make a good gel. Sugar also contributes to the taste of the product. Never cut down on the amount of sugar a recipe calls for unless syrup is the desired result.

Granulated white sugar is usually used in homemade jellied fruit products. Sweeteners such as brown sugar, sorghum and molasses are not recommended because their flavor overpowers the fruit flavor and their sweetness varies. Artificial sweeteners cannot be substituted for sugar in regular recipes because the sugar is needed for gel formation. Sugar-free jams and jellies can be made, but require a specific recipe.

Look for a recipe from a reliable source like the National Center for Home Food Preservation or The USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning. Sugar-free jams and jelly recipes are also available. To find recipes, tips and safe food preservation information online, visit nifa.usda.gov.